Monday, October 15, 2012

Nakivale Settlement, Western Uganda


You know when so much has happened you can’t really think of how to describe it?  That’s kind of how I feel about the time since we have left Gulu.  I just wrote the past two posts over the past few days that we haven’t had internet access, but feel like there is so much more to say.  Every day is packed full of things but I feel like my brain is on overload and I cant remember anything.

Right now I’m sitting in my new home for the next 2 weeks.  It’s smack-dab in the center of Kigali, Rwanda’s capital.   The past few days getting here have been long and tiring, and looking back at them, everything seems blurred together.

Francesca and I at the Equator on our way to Mbarara

We set off from Kamapala on Sunday, about a 5.5 hr drive to Mbarara , a large town in the West.  Because it was more like a layover, we didn’t have much time to explore in the two days we were there.  We did get to meet the SIT Rwanda program students though.  That was interesting and really made us appreciate our own group.  There are 23 of them and apparently they don’t get along too well.  They talk a lot of smack and are pretty crazy (they party hardy).  I’m really glad that all 14 students in our group are truly interested in the content of our program and have the easy-going personalities that we do.

The night we met up was actually Uganda’s 50th anniversary of independence.  That was exciting to go out that night to celebrate, but turned out to be a little too rowdy.  I’ve never really felt too uncomfortable since I’ve arrived here, but the men that night were a little too aggressive for anyone’s liking.  It probably didn’t help going out with a group of about 30 muzungus, where only 8 were boysso most of us ended up going back very early.   Simon was with us and brought two local friends, and even they were little help deterring unwanted attention. It’s unfortunate that the some people here have this perception not only of muzungus, but of women in general.  We weren’t the only ones getting paid attention to…

During the day we had quite a different experience.  We took a trip just outside of town to Nakivale Refugee Settlement.  The landscape instantly changed to a flatland, clearly infertile, between mountains on all sides.  In this 71 K2 area, 70,000 refugees are currently living.  There are around 30,000 Congolese, 10,000 Somalis, 8,000 Rwandese, and the rest consist of Burudis, Ethiopians, Kenyans, 1 Liberian, 1 Iraqi, 1 Frenchman, and 1 Tanzanian.  We also learned that as of July 2013, the Rwandese will loose their refugee status here because it is deemed safe for them to return to their country, so then they must either repatriate, apply for citizenship in Uganda, or appeal their case of refugee status.  It just amazed me because this land is beautiful to the eye, but clearly not a place by any means easy to live in, so obviously these people are staying here for a reason. The way it was put suggested that they are just trying not to go back even though it’s fine for them to.   With only receiving 7kilos of food for a month, I doubt anyone would opt for this lifestyle if they had a better option. 

                               Group picnic in the flatlands of Nakavali      Rwandese community in Nakivali Settlement
            
Uganda’s refugee policy is interesting.   It seems that they do the most the can as they do not have “camps” but “settlements.”  This means they allot the newcomers land to live, grow food, etc. rather than just a temporary plastic tent squeezed next to others.  This at least gives people a little freedom to try to maybe live similarly to how they did in their previous culture.

In this settlement, there is 1 secondary school, 9 primary schools, 1 vocational training school, and only 4 health centers, which are inefficient and corrupt.  The main problems that the settlement faces as a whole are peace, peace building, and reconciliation, so I’m sure that alone paints a vivid picture of what life is like there.  Although each ethnic group stays in its own village, there are still tensions amongst them.  It was interesting reflecting afterward to see how different groups perceived their camp experience.

Our group split into two, one to talk to Somalis and the other to talk to Congolese.  My group talked to Somalis, who thought the camp is very safe and that tensions with other groups are non-existent.  However, the other group talked to Congolese, where women openly expressed their fear of going out to collect firewood or farm because of the probability of rape.  They also resented the other groups who were getting resettlement in other countries.  It is clear that every group has a different idea of what life is in the camp.
Somali area of Nakivale Settlement

A (relatively) nice home in Nakivale

What I was most surprised of was the openness in the camp.  In Gulu, everyone has endured tragedy of some sort from the conflict, but many people don’t talk about it openly.  In the camp, people would just walk up to us and tell us their stories.  One man from Somalia lost his whole family and wishes to never even hear of the place again.  Another man was once a doctor and is now here with not enough money to even eat every day.  In our group, we talked to about 30 Somali men and women.  It was interesting that one woman was the first to stand to tell her story.  She shared that she was kidnapped in 2011 by Alshebaab for 7 months.  She wouldn’t openly talk about the atrocities that went on in front of the men, but allowed the girls to read her medical report.  Out of respect for her I wont share her name or the details of her story, but what you can imagine happened to her is probably not nearly as bad as what actually did.  She is now left with a demobilizing gash on her right leg, four children, no husband, or hearing in her right ear.  But as she says, life goes on and she makes the best out of every day.

Another issue the camp faces is the situation of the children.  The group we were talking with expressed concern of no loyalty to their mother country among the youth because they either were too young to remember, or were born in the camp.   They now also are getting poor education, and often are neglected by their parents.  One woman says she is ashamed because her children will come crying and she can only ignore them because she knows if she answers there is nothing she can offer to satisfy their need.


So much was going on it was hard to take in.  It’s tricky to believe that in such a picturesque place there is so much suffering.  But I’m also starting to realize that is a trend here in Uganda.

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